Re-Enacting 101

By Gary Astleford

Playing the role of a cavalry trooper in our unit is, as Captain Schurmann
says, "The most fun you can have with your clothes on." I can honestly
say that my experiences thus far have been extremely rewarding, and I
wouldn't trade them for anything. The money I've invested into this hobby
has been well-spent.

There is the issue of cost. Re-enacting requires a substantial initial outlay of money. The list of equipment necessary for a successful impression can be very intimidating to a "fresh fish." Trust me, I know. Keep in mind that this money doesn't need to be spent all at once, and once you've got the equipment you need, it will last you a good long time if you take the time and effort to maintain it.

Sutlers
Odds are you'll be buying your equipment from a mail-order sutler. The quality and prices of equipment varies from merchant to merchant, so don't be afraid to shop around and ask questions. Check the list of web links elsewhere on this site, and visit some of the sutlers we've patronized in the past. When you're ready, order the items that you need, but don't feel pressured into buying everything at once. Ask the veterans in your unit for help. Go to a member's house and see the equipment. Touch it, and try it on. Size matters.

Getting your uniform by mail order requires that you know all your bodily measurements. It also requires a great deal of patience due to the time periods involved with shipping the items. Not everything you'll want will be available, and some of it will have to be made to order. If you're "big and tall," you might have to pay a little extra for some articles of clothing because of your size. Always remember to inquire about a sutler's return policy, in case you receive an item that doesn't fit, or that has been damaged in transit.

You can also purchase gear from sutlers at events. This can be beneficial, as you'll have a chance to peruse the quality of the goods, ask other unit members for advice, and try any clothing on. While the occasional impulse buy is to be expected, don't forget to shop around if more than one merchant is available.

Be sure to purchase articles that are as period correct as possible. Ask other members of your unit for advice if you have any concerns. Before buying anything, ask if anyone in the unit has any second-hand gear they're willing to sell. This can save you a lot of money in the long run.

Uniform
Your uniform is the core of your impression, and is the one thing that is absolutely required to participate in the hobby. Some sutlers offer package deals for uniforms, though I've never seen one for a cavalry impression. More than likely, you'll need to buy each item separately. Please note that items marked with an asterisk (*) aren't a priority, and in some cases, they are completely optional.

The regulation uniform consists of:

Brass Insignia
This is the brass insignia you wear on your forage cap. You'll need to order a number 2, the letter I, and a set of crossed sabers.

Cavalry Boots or Brogans
Either of these is acceptable, and the one you choose is a matter of personal choice and economy. Cavalry boots are more expensive than Brogans (about twice the cost, but they're a bit more "cavalryesque" in appearance. Brogans are simply leather shoes that were worn by troops and civilians during the Civil War.

Forage Cap - 1858 pattern
Commonly referred to as a "bummer cap" or a "bummer," the forage cap preceded the kepi. You'll be attaching your brass insignia to the top of your forage cap.

Four-Button Sack Coat or Shell Jacket
Depending on your tastes and budget, you'll need to buy either a sack coat or a shell jacket. A sack coat is loose, with four gold buttons and simple fold-down collar. It is comfortable, and generally the least expensive of the two. A shell jacket is a short waist coat with a tighter fit than a sack coat. The cavalry shell jacket should have yellow trim (denoting the cavalry) and twelve gold buttons. Shell jackets are a bit more expensive, but they're also (in my opinion) a little sharper-looking than sack coats.

Gauntlets*
These are leather gloves with full cuffs. Not everyone buys these, but if you've got everything else and want to round out your uniform, they're nice to have. Unless you are portraying an officer, specify that you want enlisted gauntlets, as opposed to officer's gauntlets, when ordering.

Mounted Greatcoat*
For those really cold nights, a greatcoat is an excellent way to stay both warm and in-period. They're not cheap, and you don't need to have one. If you decide to buy a greatcoat, buy an enlisted mounted greatcoat of the Civil War period. The 1880 version looks very nice, but it is not in-period. Mounted greatcoats are double-breasted, with a cuff-length cape.


Mounted Trousers
Mounted-pattern trousers are made from sky blue wool, and have an extra layer of cloth in the seat and inner leg areas. Alternately, you can use standard infantry trousers, which are a little bit cheaper, though not by much.

Shirt

This is a simple white shirt, generally made from cotton or muslin, that you wear beneath your coat or shell jacket.

Spurs
These are brass spurs with rowels. If you get spurs, be sure to get the enlisted version unless you are portraying an officer. You'll also need leather spur straps in order to attach them to your boots. These aren't a required article, but you can buy them if you want a more complete impression.

Suspenders
Also referred to as braces, you use these to hold up your trousers (very important!). Suspenders are generally made from heavy cotton tape, canvas, with a double front button style. Some members of the unit also use more elastic suspenders, available from Calico Outfitters. The elastic suspenders have more give than the canvas ones, so you're less likely to lose suspender buttons in the long run (yes, there was elastic in the 1860s!).

Leather Accouterments
One of the most expensive parts of the uniform will be your leather gear. A lot of these items are readily available, though some parts (the saber belt, for example) may need to be made to order. Unless otherwise noted, all leather items are black. It's important to take care of your leather, something I learned very early on.


Although your gear will be fully functional when you initially receive it, you'll need to put a little work into it in order to protect your investment. There are several types of leather treatments that you can buy (Pecards Antique Leather Dressing is what I've been using), and working this stuff into your leather items will keep them from cracking, and help to break them in and protect them. With as much as some of this stuff costs, it's important to make sure that it lasts. Our Captain and Senior Corporal are in their seventh campaign season and are still using their original leather gear.

You'll need to purchase the following pieces of leather gear:

Cap Pouch
This is a small leather box for storing percussion caps, which is worn on your belt. They are typically constructed with a piece of wool on the inside, near the top, which keeps the caps from spilling out if you leave it open.

Carbine Box
Your carbine box is where you keep your carbine ammunition. Most come equipped with a block of wood that has been drilled to the proper size for cartridges. This block of wood is typically removed, which allows for a somewhat larger capacity. Without the wood, it can hold about 30 Smith carbine cartridges, or as many paper Sharps cartridges as you can stuff into it.

Carbine Sling and Swivel
This is a thick leather belt that is worn over your left shoulder and across your chest. With a large metal swivel attached, it is used to sling your carbine. The swivel is typically included with the belt, but you may want to double check when ordering.

Cylinder Box *
A cylinder box is like a carbine box, but it holds extra pistol cylinders for fast reloading of your handgun on the battlefield. Unless you plan to buy extra pistol cylinders, you don't really need a cylinder box. Period-correct cylinder boxes hold up to two pistol cylinders.

Saber Belt (with Silver Wreath Buckle)
This is the belt to which most of your other leather gear is attached. It comes equipped with a belt (which is worn high on your waist), a strap that goes over your right shoulder (to support the weight of a saber, which is worn on your left hip), and two saber hangers (which hook to your saber's scabbard with the aid of saber hooks, see below). Note that you'll also need to order a belt buckle with your belt, specifically a "silver wreath buckle."

Saber Hooks
Also referred to as Saber Snaps, these are attached to the saber hangers on your sword belt.

Saber Knot*
Not required, but good for dress occasions if you have a saber. The enlisted version is made from black leather, with a tassel at the end. A saber knot hooks around the hilt of your saber and is worn around the wrist, and was used as a lanyard to ensure that a cavalryman's saber was not lost if he dropped it.

Holster
Your holster is where you'll keep your pistol in the field. It should fit any .44 caliber percussion pistol. The holster is generally worn on your right hip, with the butt of the gun facing forward.

Weapons & Accessories

Your weapons are likely to be the largest single investment you make, and they require the most maintenance. Because of their cost, it's important that you learn how to use and take care of them early on. There are many members within our unit who possess detailed knowledge of the weapons we use, and they will be happy to answer any questions you might have.

Cleaning your firearms requires some additional expense in the form of tools (brushes, cleaning rods, swabs, patches, and nipple wrenches) and chemicals (solvents and oils). Used in moderation, these will last a long time. Everyone has a different method of cleaning their firearms, and it's important to learn the method that best suits you.

Before purchasing a weapon on your own, check with Captain Schurmann. We are often able to get substantial discounts when ordering two or more weapons at a time. Weapons commonly employed by our unit include:

Carbine
The members of our unit use one of two kinds of breech-loading carbines: the Smith and the Sharps. While visually similar, the two weapons work in different ways, fire different cartridges, and both have their own sets of pros and cons. The Smith, for instance, is generally less expensive than the Sharps, and has of late been easier to acquire. The Smith is also easier to clean. Conversely, the Sharps is (on average) more expensive than the Smith, fires a larger cartridge (with a louder report), and requires a little more maintenance. When purchasing your carbine, be sure that you get a
cavalry model. Unlike other models, cavalry carbines are equipped with a saddle ring, which is used in conjunction with a carbine sling and swivel (see "Carbine Sling and Swivel," above).

Cavalry Saber*
A saber is one of those things that you don't need to get right away. Some members never purchase one. We normally only wear sabers to formal events and occasions. Quality and prices vary.

Pistol
Most members of our unit use the 1858 Remington New Model Army .44 percussion revolver with a steel frame. Brass framed versions are also available, but were typically used by the Confederacy due to materials shortages in the South. The Remington is a reliable weapon which is a joy to shoot. You can also use an 1860 .44 Army Colt if you prefer, and some members have been known to favor the 1851 .36 Navy Colt.

Other Weapons Accessories
Besides the weapons themselves and the items used to clean them, there are several other items that you'll eventually need to purchase. Most of these things can wait, as the members of our unit are more than willing to share. Items such as powder flasks are used store and measure black powder. If you use a Smith carbine, you'll need to purchase plastic cartridges for it, and these are both inexpensive and reusable.

Camp Gear & Other Items

Canteen
Your canteen is an important piece of equipment, and many events require participants to carry a canteen onto the field. Wearing as much gear as you do, you tend to sweat a lot, and replenishing this lost water is crucial. Your best bet is to purchase an issue canteen with a wool lining (either dark or sky blue) and a canvas strap. Canteens are constructed either from tin or stainless steel. Stainless steel canteens are more expensive than tin canteens. Although they weren't available during the Civil War, they are virtually indistinguishable from other canteens and they don't rust like the tin ones.

Chair*
In camp, after a battle, you generally want nothing more than to sit down and let your sweat dry. Unfortunately, there aren't always enough chairs to go around. Not only do chairs allow you to sit and relax, they are indispensable when loading your weapons or performing other maintenance, and at no time are chairs at more of a premium than at supper time. As with tents (see below), the unit has several extra chairs. It is each member's responsibility to eventually buy his or her own camp chair or stool, but this is not a high priority for newer members. Suffice it to say, wooden chairs are the norm, with canvas-backed "director"-style folding chairs being solid gold real-estate. As long as the chair is more or less period-correct, it
will do nicely.

Eyeglasses*
If you require eyeglasses, you can purchase period-correct frames and have lenses with your prescription inserted into them by an optician. This doesn't need to be expensive, so you might want to shop around. I ordered some period frames from Jas. Townsend & Son, had the lenses done by a local optician, and the overall cost was quite reasonable. If your normal frames are constructed of thin metal, they may be able to pass for period frames. Plastic frames are generally frowned upon.

Haversack*
Although they are not a required article, I've seen very few re-enactors who do not use a haversack. Haversacks are typically constructed of canvas or linen, and were used historically to carry food and personal items. I use mine to carry spent cartridges. Some haversacks are painted with tar, making them waterproof.

Mess Gear
This includes a period plate, cup, and eating utensils (fork, knife, & spoon). When eating in camp with spectators about, it's important to remain in period. Plates, cups, and muckets (which look like a cross between a cup or mug and a small bucket with a lid) are normally made from tin. Having non-period drink containers in camp, such as soda cans or plastic bottles, heavily detracts from our impression as an 1860's cavalry unit. Drinking your beverage from a tin cup reduces this effect drastically.

Sleeping Gear
If you intend to sleep in camp, you'll need a cot or air mattress, blankets, pillow(s), and a sleeping bag. These items do not need to be period correct, so long as you can keep them out of sight during the day when the public is in camp with the unit. Since our unit was stationed in the West from 1849 to 1862 and participated in the "Indian Wars," it is acceptable for us to use Indian blankets or Mexican blankets (the Second Cavalry was in New Mexico from 1859 to 1861) in addition to our standard issue gray wool blankets. It's important that you stay both warm and comfortable at night.

Tent*
As both a cavalry unit and an Indian Wars unit, we have quite a bit of flexibility in the tents we employ in the field. As tents are expensive, the unit doesn't expect you to go out and purchase one right away. We have several tents that are the property of the unit as a whole, and these can be used by newer members until they have tents of their own. If you decide to buy your own tent, check the Regimental Quartermaster for a 9' long, 7' high "A" tent. Don't worry about poles, ropes, and stakes, as we can either make them ourselves or buy them locally.

Odds & Ends
The more you look, the more you'll find little things that you just have to have in order to round out your impression. A few things you might be interested in, but that are by no means required, follow:

Housewife*
A housewife is a pocket sewing kit that you can fit into your haversack. It comes in handy when repairing buttons, which always seem to pop off at the worst possible time.

Neckerchiefs*
Some of our troopers (myself included) like to use neckerchiefs. Dipped in water and wrapped around your neck, it can make a big difference on a hot summer day.

Playing Cards*
Period playing cards have sharp corners, and no printed numbers. A variety of styles are available.

Pocket/Utility Knife*
Simple pocket and/or utility knives are always useful for dozens of little chores. I found a nice inexpensive model at Jas. Townsend & Son, which has proven to be indispensable on more than a couple occasions.

Pocket Watch*
There weren't any wrist watches used during the Civil War, so a pocket watch is a good way to keep on schedule. There are several inexpensive battery-operated pocket watches available.

Toothbrush*
If you plan on brushing your pearly whites while the public is in camp, a period toothbrush and tooth powder are a good thing to have around. Period brushes are typically constructed from bone and boar bristles.

Wallet*
A period wallet is a nice touch to any impression, but isn't strictly required.

A Final Word
Once you have the basic necessities, the rest of your impression seems to fall into place accordingly. Finding a sutler you trust is important, because it means you'll never come away unsatisfied. I've done most of my business with Frazer Brothers, and many of the members of our unit endorse Frazer Brothers for their reliability, value, and the overall quality of the merchandise they sell. Regardless of the supplier, it is more than likely that you can find the items elsewhere if you shop around. Links to various Suttlers are on our web-site.